What Should a Fully Charged 12v Deep Cycle Battery Read

THE BASICS ON BATTERIES
*Important Items Highlighted/ Colored

Commencement things offset. A 12-volt battery is not a 12-volt battery. Twelve volts is just a nominal, user-friendly term used to distinguish one battery from some other. A fully-charged 12-volt battery, allowed to "residue" for a few hours (or days) with no load being drawn from it (or charge going to information technology), will balance out its charge and measure about 12.half dozen volts between terminals.

When a battery reads merely 12 volts under the above conditions, it's almost fully depleted. Actually, if a bombardment's resting voltage is only 12.0 to 12.1 information technology means merely 20 to 25% of its useful energy remains. It's either a goner or it has been deep cycled, and a battery can only exist deep-cycled a limited number of times before it is indeed expressionless.

12-volt batteries supply useful energy only through a limited range — from over 14 volts (when fully charged and unrested) down to x.v volts in use/under load (when lights dim, pumps groan and TV pictures become small-scale). No 12-volt battery will remain at over 14 volts for more than than seconds unless it's being charged. The lowest limit is ten.5 volts (used in testing) and obviously unsatisfactory in practical use. Experienced RVers endeavour to use no more than 20% to 50% of the energy available in a battery before recharging. That ways they never allow resting voltage get below 12.5. They never employ more than 50% earlier recharging (resting volts of 12.three) except in an emergency. They know that, if resting voltage ever reaches 12.i, they have deep-discharged ane wheel and that a battery is adept for merely and so many cycles (from as low as 20 in an automotive battery to 180 in a golf cart battery, with the typical RV/marine battery good for no more than thirty).

Watts = Volts x Amps example: 60W = 12V x A and 60 ÷ 12 = 5 amps

Battery CHARGING VOLTAGE
Charging voltage is different. Some more nuts: If you lot read manufactures on how electricity flows, you see comparisons as to how water flows. This is okay upwards to a point, just water also flows by gravity. Electricity doesn't, it has to be "pushed" (just as water has to sometimes be pumped).

You lot take to have more "juice" at one cease of a wire than y'all demand at the output or electricity won't flow. The wire y'all pump electricity through and the connections in the lines resist the flow. Y'all have to overpower it. Similarly, batteries have an inherent resistance to have a accuse because of their chemic makeup. You have to force more than electricity into a battery than it would like to accept or it won't be fully charged. To charge a standard 12-volt bombardment, you have to bring it upwardly to higher up 14 volts (amount varies with the blazon of bombardment).

When checking the batteries, (at balance) use these "Voltage Landmarks".

12.six volts = 100%
12.5 volts = 70%
12.3 volts = 50%
11.4 volts = 20%

The typical wet-cell bombardment (pb plates in a mixture of sulfuric acid and water) needs to be charged up to about 14.+ volts in social club to fairly distribute those funny little things called electrons through the plates. Once that's washed, the battery can residue. Equally it does, the electrons distribute themselves and eventually balance out at 12.vi volts (more than or less, depending on the type battery and its status). This is your starting point.

MORE AMPS AND VOLTS
As mentioned earlier, you lot should only describe a battery downwards to about 12.iii volts earlier recharging . Obviously, there's more to information technology than that. Amperes are the measure of actual power available. They're usually converted to amp(ere) hours (AH). Think of it every bit the amount of (nominal) 12-volt power yous can draw out of a battery for a certain amount of time. Information technology's not just 3-tenths of a volt. It's 12 (nominal) volts for a certain corporeality of time. The iii-tenths stuff is cipher more than a difference in measurement — like the difference between three-fourths of a tank of gas and a half tank.

Look at voltage as ii things: First, a force that pushes electrons — Second, as a handy measurement.

Look at amperes as two things: First, a quantity of energy (like yous would a gallon of gas) — Second, as a handy measurement. From a (nominal again, don't forget) 12-volt tub of energy, you lot can extract just so many amperes of power.

Continue in mind that the laws of physics prevent y'all from getting more out of something than yous put into information technology! Keep in listen that waste (those wires, battery contents and such) prevents you from taking out as much as yous put in. Keep in heed that y'all're going to accept to put in about x% more electrical power than you apply (high school physics). A battery banking company is like a "money" bank or checking account — if yous repeatedly have more out than you put in, you lot'll eventually be in trouble.

More than ON BATTERY CHARGING
Not all batteries are the aforementioned. Standard wet-cell batteries can be charged to 14.+ volts (unremarkably xiv.3 but depends on the manufacturer). Gel-cell batteries and other sealed batteries should never be charged to more than than nigh 14.1 volts (over again, may vary depending on manufacturer). And these figures merely pertain when the charger will be asunder equally those levels are reached (as with a generator, solar arrangement, portable charger, or engine alternator). Every bit the volts drop (usually down to about 12.half-dozen to thirteen.3), charging begins again, either manually or through an automated regulator. Note besides: The maximum charging voltage quoted for gels by the manufacturer is equally a sustained voltage, not an intermittent ane. That means brief over-voltages earlier a regulator shuts off are OK.

Sustained charging, where the batteries are "floated" at a constant charge (equally in the RV converter or with an automated portable charger) should non be done at more than than thirteen.viii volts (and 13.65 makes batteries concluding longer). Information technology's supposed to continue the batteries "upward" to a reasonable level without undercharging or overcharging them (the assumption being you'll "top them off" by driving). Unfortunately, many cheap chargers and RV converters don't regulate very well. Overcharging destroys batteries chop-chop. Undercharging destroys batteries too, simply more than subtly equally the bombardment stratifies and will no longer maintain a accuse. In result, the 100 amp/hour RV battery becomes a 10 amp/hour bombardment after consistent undercharge. It volition read total voltage, but as soon every bit a small load is placed on information technology, it drops to nothing. RVers who remain plugged into commercial power for long periods often never know this has happened until they unplug, because the converter'due south transformer also supplies power direct to the RV circuits while information technology's charging the battery — or trying to.

Battery EQUALIZING
Sometimes an equalizing charge can correct the in a higher place situation. BUT, don't always effort to equalize a really sealed wet bombardment or gel-celled or AGM battery! Y'all've got to be actually conscientious when doing this! The bombardment is going to "gas" (bubbles in the cells, hydrogen gas escaping). Information technology shouldn't be violent, spewing acid an over the place, just gentle to rapid bubbling but it requires caution. It'south usually washed by hooking upward a manual charger, then bringing the voltage up to 14.i or fourteen.3 and, instead of stopping as usual, keeping information technology there, at near a v-amp charge, for 3 to six hours (until voltage reaches 14.5 to 15). Exercise this with the caps off of a standard battery so yous tin see what's going on. Virtually three hours is usually normal for one of these equalizing charges.

Follow rubber precautions, utilize condom goggles, plenty of ventilation, etc.

Some battery people recommend equalizing in this manner every iii months (or after 5 deep cycles). I think the wear and tear on a 12V battery from equalizing this often does more impairment than it's worth.

Batteries held at 13.eight or so for long periods get lazy and similar it there. They need some "equalizing" also. Non as drastic as above, fortunately. If you lot bulldoze occasionally, your engine alternator should do it (assuming the regulator is set properly). And then will a solar electric organization or a good, well-regulated independent battery charger. If nothing else, use the manual charger once in a while when parked and plugged in, but merely bring volts up to 14.+ (any'south appropriate) and terminate in that location.

Golf Cart Battery
Six volt heavy-duty batteries (like golf carts, etc.) differ. Their heavy plates and other construction features allow periodic equalizing. I recommend the aforementioned 5 amp accuse rate, for three to six hours (until voltage reaches a maximum of xvi.5) every half-dozen months or so. It varies, with some people doing it monthly (which might mean another problem).

BATTERY Charge/DISCHARGE RATE
You'll encounter references in battery books to the proper charge rate. C/10, C/20, etc. Sometimes it tin can exist confusing. What you need to know is that information technology means the "time" it takes to fully charge a "dead" battery at a certain amp rate. For example: A 105AH battery will fully recharge (from dead) in most x hours at most x amps of charge (C/x) or about 20 hours at five amps of charge (C/xx). Faster accuse rates, like C/5 or C/8 shouldn't be used with most batteries because the high amperage required for such a fast accuse damages the battery. C/five on a expressionless 105 AH battery requires pounding in over 20 amps. (This is sufficient reason to stay away from fast-chargers in service stations where a gigantic amount of amps are pummeling your battery when they "charge" (destroy) it in 20 minutes. And when you purchase a battery off the shelf, don't let the guy "put it on a charger for just a few minutes" or it will exist damaged before you e'er utilise it.

Battery TROUBLESHOOTING AND Battery TESTING
Don't simply supplant batteries and continue on trucking! Detect out what went wrong first. Is the converter working? Voltage likewise high? Too low? Is it continued to the battery? Fuse blown? Wire cleaved? Contacts cruddy? Impale switch on motor home on or off (whichever is advisable — and the wrong position a common error among motor homers)? How many times have y'all deep-cycled? Short in the system? Been hooked upward a long time? Automotive regulator/alternator OK? (More than afterward.)

Measuring, metering, testing and troubleshooting require just a few tools and bones knowledge. Much of it is common sense, requiring no tools. Do not ever depend on the red/xanthous/dark-green idiot meter installed in most RV'south. Get a digital meter. You demand a digital meter to accurately read battery voltage to tenths of a volt. You should take an Analog (needle face) meter too. Y'all can't tell the difference betwixt bombardment voltages with an analog with great accurateness, just they are better in some ways (considering information technology'due south easier to see rapid changes) than digital meters for reading fluctuations. (Much more than afterwards.)

Get a 12-volt troubleshooting light/test lamp from any auto store cheap or make your ain. (Meters will point voltage fifty-fifty if in that location's but i strand left in a wire. Test lamps won't light if at that place's not enough wire to deport the load.)

Become a decent hydrometer if y'all take wet-cell batteries and can remove the caps. Don't get a cheapie with colored, floating balls. Learn how to read a hydrometer.

Battery Testing
Can be done in more than 1 manner: The most authentic method of measurement is using a hydrometer to measure specific gravity and using a D.C. voltmeter to get the battery voltage.
A quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed12 volt batteries.
For whatsoever of these methods, you must start fully charge the battery and then remove the surface charge. If the battery has been sitting at to the lowest degree several hours (I adopt at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must be discharged for several minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will exercise the flim-flam. Afterward turning off the calorie-free you are ready to test the battery.

State of Accuse	Specific Gravity	Voltage
		12V	6V
100%	1.265	12.seven	6.3
75%	ane.225	12.4	6.2
fifty%	1.190	12.two	6.i
25%	1.155	12.0	6.0
Discharged	1.120	11.ix	6.0

Specific Gravity: Total charge SG will run from about 1.260 in an auto battery to about 1.275 in a golf cart. High SG (more acid) allows more juice (electric current) to be drawn–but merely up to a point; then the battery deteriorates–fast. Golf cart plates are fabricated to handle this, RV/Marine somewhat, automotive not at all. Don't attempt to get more AH past adding acid (or vinegar instead of distilled water), the battery will only dice sooner.

More ON SPECIFIC GRAVITY–and checking resting voltage
If y'all have standard batteries, get a expert hydrometer (not one with colored floating balls in it). It must have a tube inside with SG increments clearly marked and a built in thermometer with a temperature correction chart. It's unlikely that a new battery, even freshly charged, will requite more than eighty% of its rated output. Y'all'll go more afterwards it's been used and recharged a few times–unless information technology's faulty. Bank check SG anyway to constitute a "baseline" reading.

Look especially for differences between cells. A variation of .050 between whatsoever means a possible problem. This is after it's charged and bubbled a bit to mix chemicals thoroughly. If it's a new battery and this happens, have it back. If one-time, plan on replacing information technology soon. It probably has a stratified/shorted prison cell. Initially, in that location's no need in checking SG until a battery reaches most 70% of full charge and is bubbling/gassing slightly (not humid like a coffee pot). So, have readings once each hour and write them downwards. When three successive readings are alike, the battery is as charged every bit it will get. Tape readings for each prison cell and battery. Disconnect battery from whatsoever accuse or load and leave it overnight (24 hours is improve). Check SG once more. Readings may be a flake lower, just should exist consistent. Record these as your new baseline: your normal, total charge, resting values.

Do this again after ii weeks or a month of use. Readings may be slightly higher, merely over again, should be consistent. If the batteries have been constantly overcharged or undercharged, it will show up here. You lot should accept checked that your bombardment charger was prepare properly earlier starting all this, but if you get abnormal readings check that your charger is regulating properly (see later). If you accept to add h2o this soon, you are nigh definitely overcharging. Once y'all've done the above tests, you shouldn't accept to do it more than twice a twelvemonth unless you detect a problem. Yous should check water level about in one case a month. Ideally, you shouldn't have to add water more than two to four times a year. More than than that probably indicates overcharging.

Using a Hydrometer Without Making a Mess

Stick it in a cell until information technology simply rests on top of the plates. Squirt in and out a few times–gently, don't splatter. And then fill until the inner tube floats. Too footling and it will remainder on bottom of hydrometer. Too much and it volition hitting the acme. In either case, you'll get imitation readings. Don't remove the thing from the prison cell to read it, yous'll only baste acid all over. Take your reading and write information technology down. Read at the fluid level, not at the slight curvature where the fluid touches the inner tube. (Before moving to the next cell, don't forget to eject the acid back in.) Note temperature on thermometer and correct reading as indicated. Notation, over again, that all readings for a battery should be within .050 of each other. Keep in heed you lot might have a cheap or faulty hydrometer. El cheapos take a paper SG scale in the tube that slips up and down.

Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at virtually car parts stores. Some battery companies label their bombardment with the amp load for testing. This number is ordinarily 1/2 of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for xv seconds. A load test tin can merely be performed if the battery is near or at full accuse.

Hydrometer readings should non vary more than .05 differences between cells.

Digital Voltmeters should read as the voltage is shown in this document. The sealed AGM and Gel-Prison cell battery voltage (full charged) will be slightly higher in the 12.eight to 12.9 ranges. If you have voltage readings in the x.5 volts range on a charged bombardment, that typically indicates a shorted jail cell.

If you lot take a maintenance gratis wet prison cell, the only ways to exam are voltmeter and load test. Any of the maintenance free blazon batteries that accept a congenital in hydrometer(black/greenish window) will tell you the status of ane cell of half-dozen. Y'all may go a good reading from i cell but accept a problem with other cells in the bombardment.

MAINTENANCE

Maintenance is all-important. Crud on top of a battery provides a path between poles. Information technology'due south a "short." One near people never notice, merely it uses energy constantly.You lot don't need to slop baking soda all over. Frequently but a spray 'northward wipe with household cleaner is all that's needed.

• Corrosion will build upward. Some-times you can't even come across it. Have contacts apart and clean them. (Now is when you might use baking soda, merely don't let information technology go in the cells.) Done in one case or twice a twelvemonth, information technology's fast and piece of cake.
• Before putting things back together, coat all surfaces (thinly) with silicone dielectric grease. That'southward earlier, not after. Yous won't reach a thing past smearing grease on top of corrosion.
• Never use red battery spray. It only makes things worse. The red/green felt, noncorrosive washers are okay.
• Label or colour-code cable and wire ends. Make a diagram. If you don't, you'll simply hook things upwardly wrong.

More DETAILS ON BATTERIES (MOSTLY GEL CELLS and AGM)
Much of the aforementioned textile applies: All batteries need to be maintained. All batteries need to be kept charged — but not overcharged or undercharged. All need clean connections and good, stout cable and wire of the proper size. No battery should exist routinely deep-cycled. Of nigh importance, charging needs to be well regulated.

And here's where the difference between gels, AGMs and regular, wet-cell batteries starts to show up seriously.

• Wet jail cell (flooded) batteries: Suspended plates, ordinarily with some form of separators (so plates don't bear on each other) are immersed in liquid electrolyte. These may be charged, just equally a starter battery, which makes things a lot simpler.
• Gel batteries: Plates are suspended in a thick gelled electrolyte that insures stability and eliminates voids or "air pockets" at the plates. The best gels are those past "East Penn Mfg." (nether "SeaGel," Prevailer" and other labels — just the Eastward Penn name volition appear somewhere). Competitors are lite weights. Gels are seldom charged to more than than 14.1 volts initial (bulk) accuse and 13.8 (13.65 is amend) as a "float" accuse (run across later on).
• AGM (Absorbed Drinking glass Mat) batteries: A dense fiber matting between the plates and a liquid electrolyte provide
  like features to gel batteries merely are much more than rugged since they were designed for apply in aircraft and rough terrain vehicles. The best AGMs are those fabricated by "Concorde" (unremarkably under the "Lifeline" label but Concorde will appear somewhere). AGMs (like gels) are very sensitive to overcharge. 14.38 volts is recommended for the initial (bulk) charge and 13.38 as a "float" charge.

Pros and Cons:

Standard, old-timey flooded batteries are inexpensive (initially). They'll do the chore (golf carts or like amend than RV/Marine stuff). See remarks elsewhere. They will vent gas and fluid, but it can exist replenished with distilled water. They require a lot of care.

Gells and AGMs can practice a better job and last longer, Simply also require special care. They're rather expensive initially (just my six gels are in their 10th year, equally good as new, and the cost nets out to less than standard batteries). However, they are very carefully charged and that requires an expensive charger/regulator. Gels and AGMs don't need a lot of maintenance and cleaning (other than a quick spray and wipe from a household cleaner) UNLESS you do something stupid and overcharge them. They won't spill acid, are very daze resistant, don't pass gas (pun intended) unless seriously overcharged, have a VERY low self-discharge rate (squeamish when the RV is in storage) and have a very long wheel life.

I've used golf game cart batteries, regular batteries and gels. As I'll echo with more detail elsewhere, golf carts and like batteries are, all things considered, the all-time solution. Were I to have to replace my batteries today (they're in the living compartment in a small RV), I'd go with AGM. In a bigger RV, I'd go with golf cart or fork lift batteries.

You should never accuse a gel battery to more than 14.one volts (or to more than the voltage specified past the manufacturer) before the regulator shuts off the charger except for very brief periods. And then, as a bombardment is "floated" (kept on the charger with a charge applied to keep it up to a reasonable level), it should never exceed 13.8 volts (amend, for long life is a maximum of 13.65 volts). Again, though, you don't float the battery permanently. You occasionally bring it upwards to 14.+ (this is EZ with a solar regulator or better quality battery charger that will perform regulating tasks frequently and automatically. (more later.)AGMs are charged similarly, merely with unlike voltages.

Really, you'd exist foolish to keep (float) whatsoever bombardment at a sustained accuse of over 14 volts. You lot'd just wear it out prematurely and it would be spewing acid all the fourth dimension, making a mess. But with a regular, wet-prison cell bombardment with removable caps, you tin add together water and make clean up the corrosion. With a gel, or whatever other (really) sealed battery, you can't add water. All you tin can do is scout the battery deteriorate.

Gel batteries and AGMs do take caps, just don't always try to remove them. First, you'll violate the warranty. Second, you'll contaminate the inside. When information technology dies early, the dealer/factory will know you did this and will void the warranty. Also, if y'all overcharge a gel or AGM battery, the factory tin can detect that, also. Again, no more warranty.

TEMPERATURE
Temperature is of import when charging whatsoever kind of batteries. A really hot battery (EZ to achieve if they're sitting out in a cheap, plastic box) will overcharge well earlier the voltages listed earlier. Keeping batteries "indoors" helps continue them at about an ideal temperature (of near 68 to 77ºF). Actually, high temperature only becomes a existent problem when the bombardment is existence "floated." A 13.8 volt bladder can easily become a 14+ a-whole-agglomeration float at 90º. Temp tin likewise be a winter problem equally batteries attempt to freeze and their amp hour capacity is reduced by over 30%.

MORE ON REGULATING CHARGE
There are only a few RV converter/combination bombardment chargers that are worth having. Most do an absolutely lousy job and yous oasis't the faintest idea what wild voltage (or lack of) is going to your batteries. Some converter/chargers do work. Check yours no matter what kind of battery y'all utilize. With the thing operating, and the battery reasonably-well charged, and not much more than load on the battery than the TV antenna amplifier and reefer brain (RV reefers with a excursion lath employ 12 volts all the fourth dimension, just to operate the board), put a digital volt meter beyond the "house" battery terminals. Leave it there awhile and run across if it's property the batteries to around xiii.8 volts. (Or is information technology charging them upwardly to something ridiculous?) (Or is it charging at all?) Some, even fewer, RVs use a dissever battery charger (not as part of a converter). Mostly, these are pretty good (and expensive). Simply check them the aforementioned style. Information technology's not at all uncommon to observe stock RV battery chargers floating batteries at xiv.3 volts or higher. The best chargers regulate in two, three or four stages. First, anytime there's sufficient demand, they full charge to 14.+ volts (adjustable by you). 2d, they revert to a "bladder" charge of well-nigh 13.viii (which in adept chargers is adjustable over again). Some have a 3rd, "equalizing" phase, automatic or transmission, that should as well be adaptable. (In that location are some four-phase chargers also.)

If you want to use gel or AGM batteries, you must have a practiced, reliable, user-adaptable regulator and charger. The best way to accuse batteries is with a solar electric system. (Over again, bank check outset and last with "RV Solar Electric" to a higher place.) A solar system (if it has a user-adjustable regulator) volition let y'all ready the charge cut-off at desired volts. Usually, anytime the solar system achieves that, it volition cutting off and drop to about xiii.1 volts before resuming (some solar regs will dorsum off to a float voltage). This gives the batteries a "rest" and keeps them from overcharging. (And, of course, at night, solar systems don't do anything, so there's a skilful residue, also.) For a backup, you tin can utilise a generator or commercial power. Brand sure your generator (if it has a straight DC 12 volt charging outlet) is set to regulate at proper volts! If it just charges through your converter, you'll have checked that above, merely recheck information technology with the generator running. Do the same with an independent charger. Many others are bachelor.

Deep Cycling
Let's consider something hither: One does not deep cycle a battery daily as a matter of course. If i did, and then the maximum life of any battery would equal the available number of cycles and no battery would last more 6 to 9 months. Ideally, what you need is a bombardment (batteries) that volition provide the power yous require without beingness cycled (depleted from resting full charge) by more than than 20 to 50% earlier existence recharged. (If you accept a 100AH battery and take no more than 20AH from it earlier recharging, it might terminal longer than you will.) Unfortunately, this isn't realistic, but you can take up to 50% from a bombardment before recharging and all the same become long life. Simple arithmetic–how many AH used versus how many AH available volition tell you how many batteries are needed. Continue in mind that you shouldn't expect but 80% of the manufacturer'due south rating. So a 105AH battery is really well-nigh 84AH. MAX! No battery will give yous its rated output in existent life! They're rated downwards to an cease point of 10.5 volts. Past then, lights become dim and TV picture small. A Specific Gravity of almost ane.200 or a voltage of 12.25 to 12.iii ways the bombardment is about fifty% discharged. Past the time it'south down to eleven.8 or 12 volts, it'south almost dead.

AMP Hours and Battery Chapters
What are "Amp Hours"? Amp hours is the amount of current in "Amps" times the number of hours it can deliver that current.
Case: A 100 amp-hour bombardment can deliver 10 amps for 10 hours or 20 amps for 5 hours.
One amp for 100 hours, or whatever combination, should let y'all to rate batteries, but it doesn't work like that. (Information technology's a logarithmic, not a linear, progression.) Further, chapters, in AH, depends on several things: size, amount/type electrolyte, plate thickness, etc. Y'all don't desire to investigate all that crap. Of primal interest to united states of america are:

Rate of Belch: Generally xx hours for automotive, six for golf cart and 8 for RV/Marine. A 180AH golf game cart volition, technically, give yous thirty amps for its rated 6 hours, but information technology will not give 60 amps for three hours. (Has to practice with things like heat at this college rate due to farthermost chemic action demanded–stuff y'all don't want to fool with.) Information technology will give one amp for about 105 hours, though, which is nice to know. Don't just read AH. Read the charts when comparing batteries.

Specific Gravity: Full accuse SG volition run from well-nigh ane.260 in an auto battery to nearly 1.275 in a golf game cart. High SG (more than acid) allows more than juice (current) to be fatigued–only only up to a signal; so the battery deteriorates–fast. Golf cart plates are made to handle this, RV/Marine somewhat, automotive not at all. Don't endeavour to become more AH by adding acid (or vinegar instead of distilled h2o), the battery will but die sooner.

Temperature: Batteries are made to perform best at 77°F. At higher temps, they put out more than, but die sooner. At lower temps, they put out less, but terminal longer (unless yous let them freeze).

CABLES AND CONNECTIONS

Tying the organisation together is important. No signal spending a lot of money on batteries and chargers and wiring it upward with skimpy junk. Large battery cables can be purchased from San Diego Bombardment Wholesale. Custom-made cable to your lengths with terminals that lucifer your vehicle is besides available.

METERING BATTERIES
If you lot have maintenance costless (maintenance prohibitive) batteries, you tin can't have fun with a hydrometer. Even if you can use a hydrometer, yous don't demand to (or want to) do it more than a couple of times a year. Use the chart (meet later) to keep an accurate check on land of charge. When taking SG readings, measure voltage at the same time. Keep in heed that if a battery is charging, voltage volition read about ½ to 1 volt college than bodily. Note that chart voltages (later) are equally piffling as .05 apart. You lot tin can't read that accurately on an analog (dial/needle-faced) meter. Yous need a digital meter. Y'all don't need to spend over $200 for a professional person model. See ads in electronics magazines for reasonably priced meters. You need a 3½ digit" meter (reads to 2 decimal places) and become ane with at to the lowest degree a 10 amp current measure (xx is amend). At nowadays, the best deal is a Metex brand #M3800 3½ digit at xx amp chapters for $40 from: JAMECO. (Run into Sources.) All RVers need i of these anyway.

When checking the batteries, (at rest) utilise these "Voltage Landmarks".

12.half-dozen volts = 100%
12.5 volts = 70%
12.three volts = l%
11.4 volts = twenty%

MORE ON UNDERCHARGE AND OVERCHARGE
"Under" results in stratification. "Over" simply eats the plates. Apply a regulator to foreclose overcharge. When you recollect a battery is charged, too loftier a SG means over. Too low ways nether. Compare with an accurate voltage cheque. You should only need to add h2o a few times a twelvemonth. More than means battery's gassing too much. Y'all tin can't tell by feeling the oestrus of the battery instance whatever more (improve plastics). You must put about 10% more than energy into a battery than you take out (more than high school physics–anytime free energy is transformed, in that location must be some loss). An "old" bombardment can crave more. Compare how much you're putting in versus what yous have out and size your system accordingly.

CONNECTING BATTERIES IN PARALLEL, Serial and SERIES-PARALLEL

This is really unproblematic, but it'due south astonishing how many RVers screw information technology all up!

In series, volts increase; amps remain the same.
In parallel, amps increment; volts remain the aforementioned.

In Parallel: y'all connect the (+) of one 12vbat to the (+) of the other. Connect (-) of ane to the (-) of the other. You will then accept still have a 12volt bat, just with greater amp hour capacity. This is now an ordinary 12V bat, except that instead of being in ane "box," it is in two boxes.

In Series: If you lot were to hook two 12 volt batteries in series, you'd accept 24 volts. Conspicuously non the matter to do unless you take a passenger vehicle conversion or custom rig that uses 24Volts. Still, many RVers use vi volt (normally golf game cart) batteries. E.Grand., Ii 105AH 6v in series would yet = almost 105AH simply @ a nominal 12V.

Wiring in Series:
To visualize information technology easier. Start with a simple block diagram. Two 6V batteries.
On left bat, place (-) at left end, identify (+) on right end.
On correct bat, place (-) on left end, place (+) on right end.
Draw a line from (+) on left bat to adjacent (-) on right bat.

This is now an ordinary 12V bat, except that instead of being in ane "box" with cells all continued in serial on the interior, information technology is in two boxes joined with a cablevision. It's still a unmarried 12 volt bat, electrically, then START THINKING OF Information technology THIS Fashion and don't confuse yourself past thinking of information technology every bit bat 1 and bat 2.

At this bespeak, you've got two unused bat posts — merely like an ordinary 12 volt bat; i neg that goes to chassis ground and one pos that goes to normal 12V isolator/supply/etc.

Series/Parallel:
Just repeat the series step above with two more 6 volt bats and you stop upwardly with two 12V bats. Think of it this way instead of as four 6V bats! Y'all now take two (-) unused posts. Connect them together (only equally you would when connecting two ordinary 12V bats in parallel). Repeat for the two unused (+) posts.

It's actually quite simple. The problem many people have is in thinking that this is very complicated. It'south not.

The only time y'all think of the bats every bit four 6V bats is when you disconnect them for maintenance and cleaning. And then, only to make admittedly certain that you don't screw up when putting them back together.
Toward this end, it's essential that you conspicuously characterization posts and cablevision ends!

% Of Charge	Standard Battery Typical Specific Gravity (After Temperature Correction)	Standard Battery Equivalent Resting Volts	Gel-Cell Battery Equivalent Resting Volts
100%	i.260 (auto) to 1.280 (industrial)	12.60-12.75	12.90-xiii.00
95%	1.255	12.60-12.70	12.80
90%	1.250 (Resting South.Grand. for standard RV bombardment.)	12.threescore-12.65	12.70
85%	1.245 (Same as above. No bespeak being besides picky.)	12.60
80%	1.235-ane.240 (Nosotros try not to discharge beneath this point.)	12.50-12.55	12.lx
75%	1.225-1.230 (1.230=minimum SG for a charged battery.)	12.50
70%	ane.220 (Anything below 1.220 is "poorly" charged.)	12.45	12.50
65%	1.215	12.twoscore
60%	1.205	12.35	12.forty
55%	1.200	12.30
50%	1.190-1.195 (Try to never discharge below this point.)	12.25	12.35
45%	1.185	12.20
forty%	i.180	12.fifteen-12.20	12.25
25%	1.160-ane.170 (Dangerously low; battery existence damaged.)	12.10-12.15
20%	i.150 (Cells dice soon at this point. Cheerio-goodbye battery.)	11.80-12.00	12.15

TROUBLESHOOTING

House Battery: The intent here is to determine if the battery itself is adept, and, in its function as a "house" battery, how yous tin can test it, the house wiring and charging circuit.

State of affairs: You're charging the battery from whatever one of several sources. Everything has been working fine; but for no apparent reason and all of a sudden, there's no electricity. Don't merely start taking everything apart! Look around for the obvious. Is the battery still there? Is everything in ane piece? (A nearby lightning strike tin can blow the elevation off.) Are the cables continued? I once spent an hour roaming around with a volt meter just to discover I'd merely left the negative cable off.

Steps:
Connect a volt meter beyond the bombardment. Information technology should read some, reasonable voltage even if well discharged (unless information technology's dead). If voltage is adequate, and assuming things are normal, try moving/twisting the main cable clamps at the battery. Oft, fifty-fifty on a clean-appearing battery, a sparse film of corrosion builds up between post and connector (that you lot can't see). While the corrosion builds up very gradually, its event tin happen suddenly.

• Side by side, especially if the connections are cruddy, identify the tip of an upright, flat-bladed screwdriver on top at the circular junction of post and clamp and give it a good sock with your fist (non a hammer).
• Do the aforementioned with the other post. If bad connections are the problem, the above should allow at least some electricity to flow–enough to indicate the problem. If the above helps at all, take things apart and make clean them.
• If the to a higher place doesn't help, first disconnect the charging source then disconnect the bombardment (yous might equally well go ahead and remove it). Before you lot start phiddling with the battery, attach a pair of jumper cables from a known, good battery to the RV cables.
• Adhere the (+) cable first. If you don't let the loose stop touch something, in that location should be no sparks because there'south no place for electricity to go (all the same).
• And so attach the (-) cable to the "good" battery. (Again, at that place should be no sparks if you don't screw up.)
• Finally, attach the last (-) stop to the RV cablevision (If the bad battery was removed, sparks at this concluding connection shouldn't injure anything. This seems like a roundabout way to practice all this but there'due south a reason for information technology.
• If at that place'southward now electricity in your business firm, you know you had a discharged battery. Perhaps a bad battery, but not necessarily. Again, before y'all offset phiddling with the "bad" battery, you need to check the charging organisation. The idea here is notice out why the battery discharged.
• Run a load (lamp or whatever) to remove the surface charge from your "good" temporary battery. Depending on what kind of bombardment charger you lot take, you lot may demand to run the battery downward to about 13V or less to get the regulator to allow charging to resume. Keep measuring voltage. When charging resumes, it will increase.
• If the voltage doesn't increase, it'southward possible that your charging source (converter, generator, solar system) isn't working or the period is interrupted.

Make the dumb checks offset:

• Is the converter working? Is the "kill" switch on or off on some motor homes? It's unlikely, because so you lot should have had a gradual loss, not a sudden 1. It is possible though.
• And information technology's possible you lot have a bad battery AND a bad charging system. RV converters with built-in battery chargers can actually confuse yous. There are two outputs to these things: One furnishes 12V direct from the transformer to almost house circuits. The other goes from bombardment charger portion to bombardment. If you've been plugged into commercial power, the main transformer may have been running everything while the bombardment charger was not working. Likewise, the "kill" switch may have been off or fuse from charger diddled. (Bank check the dumb things first.)
• Put a volt meter at the battery cease while you're doing it. Quite often, a little manipulating will articulate things right upwardly. If non, go back to the source of the charging organisation with your volt meter. Is there power at the charger output? At the output to battery terminal at solar panels or solar regulator?
• Once more, check fuses carefully. Yous can't tell if a fuse is bad by looking at information technology, you demand to measure it with a test lamp. Remember that a meter can indicate "skillful" if there's but a slight contact but a test lamp won't work if in that location's not plenty to behave the load.
• If this too fails, y'all may take to check at the charging source with no battery attached. Information technology'south easy with an RV converter, but if you use a solar system or current of air generator you lot may not be able to (some tin can be severely damaged if run without a load). RTFM (Read The F****** Manual)! Our purpose in checking at the source (with or without battery continued) is to see if at that place's annihilation there.

If there's even so no voltage, now starts the onerous process of checking the whole system.

• Exercise it logically. Go all the way to the source kickoff. Disconnect generator, solar panels, whatsoever, from the system. You lot can now measure them in operation without damaging anything (except some wind chargers). If the charger works, you know that you take two long pieces of wire (+) and (-) with a problem somewhere. Don't ignore the (-) wire. It is every bit as necessary as the (+). Reconnect charger and battery if necessary.
• Go to some logical halfway indicate with your volt meter. One way or the other, you'll get voltage (unless you missed something at the source). Continue in this manner, roughly going halfway (each time on the dead side). Unless you lot screw up, yous'll soon isolate the problem to just a few feet of wire. If something hasn't been left unconnected or the wire been cutting, yous'll usually isolate the problem to a connection or fuse.
• Look at things, pull on wires to make certain they're really attached. This is where bad crimped connections show up. (I spent an hour helping someone track down a solar organization this way. Every crimped terminal vicious apart in my easily. He'd crimped them with normal pliers.) Expect for corrosion at terminals, merely equally at battery cables. Recall that just because a converter is buzzing, information technology doesn't mean the battery charger is working. If working with a solar system, never attempt to put a jumper across the solar (+) and battery (+) to bypass the regulator–you'll fry it. Notwithstanding, if you disconnect those wires from the regulator, and then you can put them together.

All the above can be done with a volt meter or exam lamp. In fact, a examination lamp works better at continuity checks, because a volt meter might bespeak ability if only ane strand of wire is still connected while a examination lamp won't low-cal if it doesn't accept a circuit heavy enough for the load.

TO Check THE Bombardment ITSELF–MORE ON RESTING VOLTAGE

Information technology can exist checked with a hydrometer, but a battery can read OK and still be faulty. Here'south a good fashion to check a battery. It takes fourth dimension, only it's worth it:

• Charge information technology fully, preferably with a practiced battery charger or an independent, manual, automotive charger (you need one anyway for emergencies). This can accept awhile if information technology'south been deep discharged (dead).
• Measure voltage. Information technology should exist quite high–over thirteen volts and fourteen.+ is better. Disconnect the charger. Exit the battery (with nothing connected to information technology) at least 6 hours. Overnight or 24 hours is better.
• Mensurate voltage once again. It should be 12.6 volts. If non, even if it's 12.5, it's a goner or information technology'southward going. If information technology reads 12.vi, it nonetheless might be bad.
• A commercial battery shop tin check this with a variable load tester. So can you. If the battery is at least a and then-chosen l00AH RV/Marine type, it should start most engines in decent conditions. Connect a volt meter across information technology. If it doesn't start, spring start it. Run the engine at a prissy, fast idle (1,500 to ii,000 rpm).
• If the voltage rises to over xiv volts in just 4 or v minutes, you have a bad battery. Due to things we won't dwell on here, the AH capacity has been severely reduced (stratification, deep discharges, etc.). What you have is a battery that has about a l0AH chapters instead of l00AH. It tests OK considering it has some capacity (might run a lamp a few hours), simply not enough. This common problem often drives people nuts. It tests OK, it simply won't last long.
• The aforementioned exam works on motorcar batteries. They examination OK but won't start an engine.

Bombardment ISOLATORS

Almost everybody has ane. Near people never pay attention to them. I do. And I've got mine remoted to a switch on the nuance to avoid the [many] problems they can cause. Most isolators send a charge to the batteries automatically. I don't want to practice that. Normally, my solar system keeps the "house" batteries charged only fine. In that location are times, in bad atmospheric condition, when I demand to heave the batteries, so when on the road I hit the switch that goes to the accuse line to house batteries and the engine alternator charges them in the normal way. A inexpensive, voltmeter on the nuance keeps me informed when to shut charging off.

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Source: https://deepcyclebatterystore.com/how-to-maintain-batteries/

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